Thursday, February 28, 2008
Here is the link to my entry:
And here is what it did for my blog traffic yesterday... =)
It was an honor to be included in your fascinating finds. Thanks again.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
came up with a great idea of adding some giant 20x24" concert polaroids to her workspace. She shared her method for creating these:
Crop your photo to 18x18" at 300dpi.
Under Blending Options use these settings:
- Inner shadow
120 degrees (uncheck Use Global Light)
Blend Mode: Normal
Fill type: Color
Open a new document.
20 in wide
24 in. high
Drag the photo onto the white background, leaving 1 in. on the left, top, and right of the photo. Flatten.
Trish from Orange Gecko Designs created a png. file using Amanda's steps. You might be able to pick it up in her post here if the download link hasn't expired:
Polaroid png. file
Since I only have Elements, I used Trish's overlay in the photo I posted at the top.
Amanda printed her polaroids on 2mm styrene with a lustre coating from WHCC.
You can find her examples here:
I have also made a polaroid collage with the Picasa software.
Picasa is free and has a collage option where the photos you select will be shuffled randomly and made into what looks like a pile of polaroid photos.
Here is one I created for Wig Out-a local charity event:
I created this with the Hockneyizer from Big Huge Labs
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
1. Prepare your images. I cropped mine to 1x1" since that is the size of the cutter I want to use. I also reversed the images by selecting "rotate" and then "flip horizontal". I printed mine on June Taylor print and press iron-on transfers for inkjet printers (blue package). I bought these from WalMart. You can also add text to your images before flipping.
2. Work with your clay until it is soft and easy to roll. I bought the original Sculpey oven bake clay. I rolled it to 3/16" (or so). I rolled mine on a 6x8 bathroom tile I purchased at Home Depot for .49.
3. Cut your tiles. You can use any shape you want.
4. Here is where a little trial and error comes in. Some people cut out their images and place them on the tiles and then peel off the backing. This proved to be very difficult for me. I opted to peel off the backing to the entire sheet before cutting out my photos. They were a little flimsy to cut, but it worked beautifully. Cut your photos to size.
5. Punch holes in your tiles if you are going to add a jump ring, ribbon, etc. I used the pointed end of a meat thermometer. It worked perfectly. Apply a light layer of Liquid Sculpey (I got mine at Hobby Lobby) with a brush. Allow it to level out.
6. Place your photo with the printed side down onto the liquid sculpey layer. The layer you peeled off is now the top layer.
7. Wipe away any excess liquid sculpey. Bake at 275 degrees for 15-17 minutes. I baked mine right on the bathroom tile.
8. Remove the paper backing. I let them sit for 5-10 minutes after baking before peeling the backing off.
Now you can sand them, cut off the excess clay, paint the edges, seal them. It is up to you.
I chose to make mine into family trees as gifts for the grandparents. This is a fun project to do with the kids. My daughter made one of her own creations with all of my scraps. I made single family ornaments for friends and finished them off with a gingham bow.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Here is the link to my feature:
You can find the blog here:
Stop by and say hello if you get the chance.
Since most of my clients aren't photographers by nature, the number one problem I see with the average snapshot is the presence of digital noise. Noise appears as a grainy texture or sometimes even tiny dots of color.
One of my first steps in preparing an image is running it through a program designed to eliminate noise. I use Noiseware for my noise reduction. Noise Ninja is another popular program.
The Community Edition of Noiseware is available as a free download here:
My next step is to run a defog.
Go to Filters>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask and enter these values:
Sometimes this can be a little too much, so you can half it or run it on a layer and adjust the opacity (slider) until you get the look you want.
I have a defog action from Renee Oakenfull at Vibe Studios that is fantastic. You can find her link in my favorites.
Here is an example of what running the defog does for your photo:
The key is to run it at the beginning of your workflow.
This makes an amazing difference in my nature images.
Next I would make any color corrections, contrast adjustments, etc.
The last step should be sharpening.
Here is a fantastic thread with techniques for sharpening from Jessica Bell:
For a good year I used this process at the end of my workflow:
Go to Filters>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask and enter these values:
It is good for general purposes, but I found my macros needed a little more.
I use the technique outlined in this article from Outdoor Photographer Magazine:
Jess has created some wonderful sharpening actions that are available on her blog:
These are all I use now. They take the guesswork out of it and make it so quick and easy.
A simple run through Noiseware, a quick defog and a little sharpening go a long way in preparing an image for my portraits. I hope you will give some of these techniques a try.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Friday, February 22, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
What a night! We were lucky here in central Kentucky. My toes are still thawing, but the skies couldn't have been any clearer. The clouds did finally roll in just as I was about to get the full moon at the end so I had to fudge the last shot. =)
I will share more tomorrow, but I need to get some sleep. The kids will be up in about 4 hours!
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
I photographed the eclipse last March and plan to be out shooting tonight if the weather cooperates. Here are a few resources for you if you want to give shooting an eclipse a try:Mr. Eclipse.com
How I shot the lunar eclipse
New York Institute of Photography eclipse tips
And here are a couple of Flickr eclipse groups to get you in the mood:
I would love to see your eclipse attempts. Please leave me a link if you want to share. =)
Monday, February 18, 2008
indie jane photography
I love the fun, fresh look of it and the contemporary flair. I can't wait to give my banner a makeover.
I also plan on making this into a watermark/copyright brush. If you have never made a brush, here are some easy to follow instructions:
Copyright Brush Tutorial
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Fake TTV Tutorial
I used his instructions to create my first fake TTV image:
I used the texture from my previous post and Jessica Bell's retro wash action.
Here are some Holga/TTV style examples from Etsy:
Stoopidgerl has some great examples. My hands-down favorite is her "Rainbow Crackhouse".
Here are some nice ones from HouseofSixCats:
Bill's TTV prints
I also found this and thought it was pretty interesting:
Who would have thought we would spend a fortune on lenses only to try to adapt them to get the look of a toy camera?!
And of course there is a Flickr group for TTV enthusiasts:
Flickr TTV Group
Friday, February 15, 2008
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
While you can find Orton actions out there, I use Photoshop Elements 4 for editing and could not find an action that was compatible. I ran across the following instructions for achieving this look in Elements and it works beautifully:
1. Open the image to be Ortonized.
2. Create 2 new, identical Layers in that image.
3. On New Layer 1, set Blending to Screen, Opacity to 100%.
4. On New Layer 2, set Blending to Multiply, Opacity to 100%.
5. On New Layer 2, apply Gaussian Blur Filter, choosing your settings as appropriate.
(6. Depending on the original image, I sometimes add another duplicated Screen Layer, made from the background Layer, to further lighten up the darker portions.)
I would love to see your before and after attempts with this technique!
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Check it out here:
Thursday, February 7, 2008
First I had my gallery page sent to me by email. I then took a screen shot, opened and pasted it into Photoshop, cropped to 5x7 and voila....
I can still read my previous comments, but unfortunately visitors will not be able to see them. They will be able to leave new comments. I did not delete my old photos, just selected "hide" from the edit menu. I am happy that my images are better protected at a much lower resolution. I also like that others can still see my previous work and I didn't have to do much processing like I would have if I had resized and changed the resolution, re-uploaded, etc. on all of these images.